A Grasmere Adventure – Gingerbread And The Lion And The Lamb

During our recent short break in the Lake District, we visited Grasmere. The purpose of our visit was to introduce the kids to this picturesque Lakeland spot and, in particular, the twin delights of Grasmere Gingerbread and Helm Crag.

Described by the poet William Wordsworth as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found,” Grasmere is one of the most popular villages in the Lake District. Wordsworth loved the area so much that he resided there most of his adult life and he and his wife are buried in the churchyard of St Oswald’s Church, located in the centre of the village.

Victorian cook Sarah Nelson invented Grasmere Gingerbread® here in 1854. Its reputation quickly spread and it is now enjoyed by foodies all over the world.

It is unique, quite unlike the gingerbread biscuits we are familiar with, and the recipe is a closely guarded secret. Described as a spicy-sweet cross somewhere between a biscuit and cake and billed as “Quite simply the best gingerbread in the world”, it is difficult to argue. Generously spiced with chunks of crystallised ginger it has a slightly crumbly yet chewy texture and is completely delicious. The little shop can be found in the centre of the village, nestled besides St.Oswald’s church – follow your nose as the wonderful aroma of freshly baked Grasmere Gingerbread hangs in the air. The shop is still located in the cottage that was once Sarah Nelson’s home, it’s quite cramped inside and queues out of the door are not uncommon. There is currently a traffic light system in operation outside so you know if you can enter, we didn’t have to queue at all and the village was actually very quiet, with many shops still closed.

Armed with a stash of gingerbread and some fiery ginger fudge to fuel us, we headed in the direction of Helm Crag. From the middle of the village we took the simple and most direct route, following Easedale Road out of the village until Helm Crag appeared ahead, rising distinctly and looking majestic in the sunshine.

Continuing along Easdale Road, ignoring the footbridge over the beck (the path to Easdale Tarn), instead we took a signed path to the right that took us towards the Lancrigg Hotel and through their wooded grounds. There was a huge tepee on the lovely lawn of the hotel, serving as an outdoor bar; unfortunately it wasn’t yet open when we passed through but it would make a perfect stop for refreshments on the way down. There is a kids playground too.

Despite its modest elevation of 405 m (1,329 ft) the fell is craggy and steep. The effort required belies the height and it feels fairly strenuous; it is a relatively short but steep ascent to the top.

Emerging from Lancrigg woods, an obvious path via a steep, rocky stairway zig-zags up past Lancrigg Crag, Jackdaw Crag and White Crag. As you gain height, you get spectacular views across Easedale Beck to Easedale Tarn and the waterfall of Sour Milk Gill. Eventually you hairpin right following the well trodden path and onto the grassy ridge, before a final scramble to the top where you will find the distinctive rock formation which gives the Fell its alternative name of The Lion and The Lamb.

Except this isn’t the top. Venture further along the boulder strewn, rocky ridge to reveal the canon shaped barrel of rock, ‘The Howitzer’ – the mountain’s true summit. Only now is it apparent why getting to it may present something of a challenge. The final 7 or so of Helm Crag’s 405 metres are made up of bare, near-vertical rock and this angular pinnacle leans out over a sheer drop beyond the steep crags of the north-eastern slopes. Teetering over this precipice it is perhaps a more intimidating climb than far loftier rock routes.

To claim the summit though, it needs to be tackled, and this is an out-and-out grade 1 scramble. Notably Helm Crag is the only Wainright that Alfred himself never actually summited. Not to be deterred and with the confidence of having done it before, Bussey accepted the challenge. Having selected his route and with quite an audience gathered to watch, he made the climb to the summit, the boy following eagerly in his wake. Much to his annoyance, the boy had to be withdrawn after getting a good way up – entirely due to my own collywobbles, not his.

What goes up must come down and as is the way with scrambling – and as Bussey found out to his cost – this is the hardest part.
The kids and I sat munching gingerbread, watching, whilst wondering if ‘Addy would ever make it down. After a few failed attempts and not until our banter/ sniggering was erring slightly towards concern, did he eventually make it safely to the ground.

You shouldn’t let the lack of height here belittle your achievement. If you’ve bagged Helm Crag’s true summit you can feel proud, after all you’re one up on “the greatest fell walker”. Well done, ‘Addy, you are the second greatest fell Walker!

We followed the same route in reverse on the way back, ending with a paddle in the cold waters of Easdale Beck, before a visit to the Herdy shop back in the village.