A surprising and picturesque walk full of interest, scenic reservoir paths and pizza!
The Washburn Valley lies directly to the north of Otley and forms the southern third of the Nidderdale AONB. It is best known for its series of four reservoirs which span the length of the valley from the northern most Thruscross (the newest of the four) on the edge of remote moorland, to the green rolling hills that surround Lindley Wood Reservoir. In between lie Fewston and the adjoining Swinsty Reservoirs. This is a landscape shaped by and for the supply of water.
Thruscross is particularly special, because beneath the calm water lies the flooded village of West End. The once bustling village was sacrificed when it was compulsory purchased and flooded in the 1960s by Leeds Corporation (now Yorkshire Water). Parts of the old village still exist and can be seen from the footpath, such as the old flax mill and communal sheep dip. The church and other buildings are apparently revealed by low waters during exceptionally dry periods. Even when full a number of buildings and tree stumps can be seen along the banks, sometimes half submerged and slightly ghostly. At one point the crumbling tarmac of an old road that used to cross where the reservoir now stands ends abruptly, eerily disappearing into the undergrowth before finally being swallowed into the cold depths.
Another highlight is the impressive Washburn Dam. From the bottom of the main carpark steps drop down to the huge concrete structure, some 600ft long and 120ft high.
The 4.5 mile circular walk offers something more of a challenge than the other reservoirs; it is altogether more rugged with genuinely varied terrain over open moorland, through pasture and along woodland paths. The irregular shape of Thruscross also makes it a more interesting prospect than some reservoirs. It is not a straightforward reservoir walk, being quite demanding in places with some climbs and rougher walking, but it is all the better for it. The route is not obvious in places and features stiles, steps and steep muddy banks riddled with tree roots. The steep sections tend to be short but it isn’t a piece of cake and definitely not pushchair or bike friendly, unlike Swinsty or Fewston.
We took an anti-clockwise route from the carpark; after crossing the dam and ascending a short section of the road, we turned left and joined the main path skirting the shoreline of the reservoir. Both sides of the path are strewn with pretty wildflowers, in particular huge patches of vibrant pink Rosebay willow herb.
We followed this obvious and well made path for a while before veering up to the right onto the moorland, which looked absolutely glorious with the heather in full bloom.
After crossing a section of moor our route then descended steeply to cross the Washburn river at a bridge, before taking us back up over Whit Moor where the permissive path becomes less well defined, although it is still intermittently signposted. You may need a map or guide for this section of the walk.
Eventually the footpath meets the road where it descends quite steeply again and we made our way down to rejoin the reservoir path, past the submerged village at West End and back to the start.
Our return to the car park coincided with tea time and we headed straight to Flock to the Fold where we had pre-ordered takeaway pizzas. Previously operating as a Bistro and Cafe, they are now serving pizzas on Fridays and Saturdays, 4pm – 8pm.
You need to pre-order in advance via the slick app accessible on their website, then just turn up at your selected time slot to collect. It is an efficient non-contact service – you simply park up and they bring your order out to your car or to the collection point. I love the inventive way so many businesses have diversified and adapted their business model to cope with Covid restrictions and this is a great example. You can even scan a QR code on a poster in Thruscross car park to order your pizza – brilliant!
It is possible that we were seduced by the delightful location and the deliciously unexpected surprise of finding fantastic wood-fired pizza in the middle of a secluded valley – but we all agreed that these were some of the best pizzas we have eaten! Pillowy and light, yet perfectly crisp and slightly chewy the blistered, charred bases were fab – not like the thick, soggy, greasy duvets on offer in some takeaways. The boy took great delight in repeatedly informing me that he doesn’t actually like my pizza crusts, but that these ones were yummy. He gave them 4 thumbs up, now that is a resounding recommendation.
There is a great choice of toppings, from traditional favourites to more unusual fusion options. The girl chose a “Tikka chance on me” (perfect for an ABBA and curry fan) – chicken tikka, raita, red onion, chutney and red chill atop a Classic pizza base. We also ordered a “Farmhouse” comprising garlic mushrooms and ham on a mozzarella and tomato base, finished with truffle oil, and also an “Americana” with pepperoni, mozzarella and tomato sauce, finished with chilli oil. Finally we also ordered a really delicious “Garlic Pizza Bread”. They were all completely delicious.
It was the perfect end to the day and we would definitely recommend this hidden gem for a quick, convenient yet delicious bite to eat at the end (or beginning) of a walk or cycle in this beautiful area. They are the real deal and any walk that ends with proper wood-fired pizza is a winner for me!
There is free parking just above the dam on Reservoir Road, Thruscross, Harrogate HG3 4BB. Worth noting, there is a 1.8m height barrier to access the carpark. There are no facilities but some well placed picnic benches.
Flock to the Fold is at Breaks Fold Farm, West End, Harrogate, HG3 4BB. https://www.flocktothefold.co.uk. It is perfectly situated just a 2 minute drive from the reservoir carpark (they share a postcode). There is also a campsite at the farm which we definitely need to experience at some point.
