Top Tips For A Trip To Reykjavík

Reykjavik is the world’s northernmost capital. It is a vibrant, quirky city and makes a fantastic destination for a totally unique family trip. What Reykjavik lacks in size it definitely makes up for in cosmopolitan cool.
Here is the comprehensive low-down on what you need to know.

Reykjavik means ‘smokey bay’ and originates from the Old Norse words ‘reykja’ (which means “smoke”) and vík (for “bay”), after the steam rising from the hot springs in the area. It is the capital and largest city of Iceland and is located in the southwest of the country, on the southern shores of Faxaflói bay.

When to go

Iceland is a year round destination, but your holiday will be very different depending on the season you chose to go.

We wanted to see the Northern Lights so winter was the only time to visit as they are not visible at other times of the year. The Northern Lights season runs from late August to mid-April, but late September through to late March is the time of the year with most hours of darkness and you can maximise your chances of seeing the lights.
Winter is also the time for ice cave tours, snowmobiling and the magic of frozen waterfalls, snowy mountains, and white landscapes. 

By February daylight hours are starting to get significantly longer, yet the night skies are still lengthy and fully dark, it is one of the best months to see the Northern Lights and also one of the quieter months in terms of tourist numbers, so we decided on a February half term break.

Summer is when Iceland has the best and warmest weather, although bear in mind that Icelandic weather can be savage and changeable even in mid summer. The best weather in Iceland is from May to August when you can expect pleasant temperatures. You’ll also have the greatest amount of sunlight at this time – Summer is the time of the Midnight Sun. It is also peak season, so when Iceland will be at its most crowded and expensive.

The shoulder seasons of March/ April and September/ October are good times to visit.

The best time to see whales in Iceland is from April to October with the peak season in June, July and August, although from Reykjavik there are whale watching tours all year round. We chose not to go out on a trip as the likelihood of seeing whales in February around Reykjavik is minimal.

The best time to see puffins in Iceland is from April to August. These small birds called “Lundi” in Icelandic, spend all autumn and winter in the northern seas and arrive in spring to the coast of Iceland to mate.

You can read more about the weather in Iceland, month by month here.

On this basis we spent 4 nights in Reykjavik during February half term. With an early morning departure on our last day we had 3.5 days to explore and probably wish we’d had a bit longer.

Getting there

We flew from the UK to Iceland with Icelandair (Manchester to Keflavik). At under 2.5 hours flight time with no time difference it was really easy.

Although considered a budget airline, Icelandair certainly didn’t feel cheap. They have a decent inflight entertainment system with seat back screens, each with its own headphone jack and USB outlet to keep your devices charged. It is worth taking your own headphones – adults have to pay and the ones given out free to the kids are a bit rubbish. The kids were kept entertained watching Coco, The Lion King and Tom & Jerry and were happy to find Björk and Billy Joel in the music selections.
In flight WiFi is available.
The kids got a nice box of complimentary food and drink and adults get free tea, coffee and soft drinks.
23kg of check in luggage and 10kg of carryon luggage in standard economy is generous.

I’d definitely fly with Icelandair again and recommend them over many of the other budget airlines.

Getting to and from the airport

Keflavik Airport is about 50km (30 miles) from Reykjavik and the drive takes around 50 minutes, so you need to consider your options for transfers in advance.

If you plan to drive and are hiring a car at the airport this obviously isn’t a concern, but bear in mind that there are very few hotels with private parking in the centre of Reykjavik and this may be an issue. Parking is limited, usually on the street, and you have to pay.

A taxi is the most expensive transfer option and you can expect to pay around €200+, but with a bit of forward planning there is really no need for this.

There is an efficient system of buses that are scheduled to leave the airport after each flight – Flybus being the main one. There is a bus ban in downtown Reykjavik so these buses drop you at the main bus station in the city then you transfer to a mini bus for drop off at (or near) individual hotels. Grayline & Airport Direct offer a similar transfer service.
This is a good resource for further details.

We booked a private car transfer directly through our hotel. It cost €135 each way but with a driver waiting for us in the airport and being dropped off and picked up directly outside our hotel it was well worth the price – especially having a very early morning departure with the kids – and it wasn’t actually that much more expensive than the four of us getting one of the bus transfers, with much less fuss.

Getting around

There are various options for getting around in Iceland. You can get regular public transport buses around the island (Strætó) – although the winter service is very limited. Alternatively you can join an organised tour, or if you want to travel a bit more off the beaten track hire a car.

We decided against a self-drive in winter given our lack of experience in the extreme weather conditions; winter driving conditions in Iceland can be seriously challenging, both in terms of the changeable and unpredictable weather and with regards to the roads themselves. Having experienced the conditions first hand I think that unless you have an appropriate vehicle and are used to driving in high winds, ice and heavy snow then a winter self drive isn’t a great idea. It is standard for roads to become impassable or to be closed, we passed loads of tourists stranded in the snow, and there wasn’t even a storm or particularly heavy snow fall whilst we were there.

We definitely intend return to Iceland at some point though for a summer self-drive to see more of the island as it gives the greatest degree of flexibly.

Downtown Reykjavik itself is very compact and most places are easily walkable, even with kids in tow. If you’re planning on spending a few days in Reykjavik or want to go slightly further afield then you might want to use some of its buses (Strætó). If you’re planning on doing this then the Reykjavik City Card may come in handy. The Reykjavik City Card allows travel on all buses and also includes free entrance to some museums and attractions. You can also make use of it to visit the various geothermal pools around the city and take a ferry trip out to pretty Viðey Island.

Bus traffic is restricted in Reykjavik Centre, meaning that scheduled buses and tourist coaches are not allowed access to a certain area of the city centre. If your hotel is located within the restriction zone and you are booked on any tours a small mini bus will pick up and drop off at the bus stop nearest to your hotel (usually only a very short walk) and take you to the central bus station to transfer to your coach.

Where to stay

Given we had decided not to drive whilst in Iceland and our fairly short time scale, we based ourselves in the centre of Reykjavík, for convenience, with a number of day trips to explore further afield. Basing yourself in the capital means you’ll have a much wider choice of accommodation and dining options, as well as the opportunity to properly explore the city itself, which has plenty to offer.

Accommodation in Reykjavik is varied, ranging from the big luxury hotels like Hilton, Kea & Radisson to more individual boutique hotels, through to budget options and hostels, apartments and Air B&Bs. There is no shortage of choice or places to stay in Reykjavik, with plenty of comfortable, stylish options at a variety of price points, but you do need to book well in advance.

In general though accommodation in Iceland is expensive. This is particularly true of Reykjavik and especially if you need more than a standard double/ twin room. Travelling with children, it can always be a huge challenge to find good quality, affordable accommodation for 4 or more people sharing. For this reason families are probably best off using serviced apartments. They also allow you to self-cater if necessary, for greater flexibility and to keep costs even lower. Preparing your own food and taking a packed lunch is always going to be cheaper than eating out. Apartments are often better value and give you a larger living space than a hotel.

We stayed in one of Reykjavík Residence’s family friendly two bed apartments, which felt really spacious and practical. It was in a great location in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, just a couple of blocks down from the main shopping street of Laugavegur and had everything we needed.

You can can read more about out our stay at Reykjavik Residence here (coming soon).

Things to do

There is loads to do in Reykjavik itself but there is also the option to get out and see some of the rest of Iceland. We took a day tour of The Golden Circle, a trip to the Blue Lagoon and a Northern Lights excursion, then spent the rest of our time exploring the city on foot. You can read more about our itinerary and exactly what we got up to here.

There are loads of tours and different tour operators, it is worth looking around for the right option for you. It is also worth booking well in advance as the tours are popular and do get booked up.

The Golden Circle

Our tour of The Golden circle was booked with Reykjavik Excursions (Golden Circle Direct). This is probably the most popular tour in Iceland and beware, the route and sights are busy!

The Golden Circle consists of three equally stunning locations in southwest Iceland: Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir Geothermal Area, and Gullfoss waterfall. These sites are renowned across the world and are all as spectacular as they are unique. The whole 140 mile route is very picturesque and you will see the hardy Icelandic horses all over the landscape.

I am usually uneasy about group tours and The Golden Circle tour, in particular, did feel a bit more rushed than we would have liked. However to be fair it was billed as an “express version” of the tour with a duration of 6 hours. We knew it was the right decision as we powered along the snow covered roads in a big coach with a very experienced driver and tour guide, passing many tourists stranded in the snow in their two wheel drive hire cars. The itinerary only gave us about 40 minutes (give or take) at each of the three locations, just enough to see the essentials, but actually you could spend a whole day exploring Þingvellir alone and there are loads of interesting diversions I would have liked to have taken, had we not been bound by a tour. Having said that the tour was interesting and worked well for us in the circumstances.

We took a packed lunch, drinks and snacks with us on this tour as nothing is provided. There are restaurants/ cafeterias at each destination but they are expensive and crowded and queuing for food only further reduces the time you have at the actual location. The visitor centre at Geysir was really busy and we were glad to have brought food with us.

The Blue Lagoon – know before you go

Our trip to the Blue Lagoon was also booked with Reykjavik Excursions (Reykjavík – Blue Lagoon Comfort Admission & Transfer). The cost included entry to the Blue Lagoon and return coach transfer from Reykjavik. We had a fixed pick up and entry time but could spend as long as we liked once in there and then return on any of the scheduled coaches, which ran every hour.

The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa, located in the lava fields on the Reykjanes Peninsula in south west Iceland and is supplied by water used in the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station.

To dispel a couple of myths, firstly the Blue Lagoon is not in Reykjavik; it’s near Grindavík, close to the airport and about 45 minutes drive from Reykjavik itself.
Secondly the Blue Lagoon is not a natural phenomenon. While Iceland is a country full of natural hot springs, controversially the Blue Lagoon isn’t one of them. The surrounding landscape is natural, as is the lava that shapes the pool, the water is also natural in that it is sourced from volcanic hot springs deep underground but the blue pools are actually the result of the waste water run-off from the geothermal power plant next door, they would not occur naturally.

The Blue Lagoon’s geothermal water is part sea water and part freshwater, which mix underground, it is enriched with silica, algae, and minerals. Being part sea water it is slightly salty and the water’s famous milky blue shade is due to its high silica content.

The Blue Lagoon is undoubtedly touristy, in fact it is the most visited tourist attraction in the country and not somewhere locals would frequent. However, it is a great experience nonetheless and, in our opinion, well worth a visit. It is one of the 25 wonders of the world, according to National Geographic, and for good reason.

Pre-booking is definitely required, days or even weeks in advance. Do not rely on just turning up as it is usually fully booked every day.

You can choose between comfort (6,900 ISK) or Premium (9,900 ISK) entry. Alternatively there is the Retreat Spa option which gives you access to a private spa (luxuriously expensive!).
Personally, I think the Comfort option is fine; included is entrance to the Blue Lagoon, a silica mud mask, use of a towel and a drink of your choice. There’s no real point to Premium, in my opinion, (you get a robe, slippers and an extra face mask, plus an optional table reservation in the restaurant). However, if you want to go all out and have the cash to splash, go ahead and do the luxurious Retreat Spa. You could even stay over in either the Retreat or Silica Hotel.
You can find further details and book directly on the Blue Lagoon’s official website.

Entry to the Blue Lagoon is free for children (2-13 yrs old) but children under 2 are not permitted. Children 8 and under have to wear arm bands (provided free of charge), this is non negotiable, even if they are proficient swimmers.

We visited in the middle of the day, the busiest time, but it didn’t feel overcrowded. Early morning or evening are nice times to visit, although in winter in the dark with artificial floodlights you possibly wouldn’t get the full effect of the striking colours. If your flight times permit it might be a good idea to visit the blue lagoon immediately after your arrival at the airport or before your departure. Bear in mind though, if your inbound flight is delayed you might miss your entry slot.

The mineral rich, salty water plays total havoc with your hair so definitely tie it up if it is long and take the advice and slather it in leave-in conditioner (provided) before you go in. I would especially be cautious if you have curly or colour-treated hair.

It is recommended to remove any jewellery before you enter the pool. Firstly the water is so milky you wouldn’t find anything if you lost it but also the mineral-rich geothermal seawater isn’t good for metal and can damage jewellery.

You are required to have have a full, naked shower before entering any communal pool in Iceland, including the Blue Lagoon. However, unlike some pools there are now private cubicles at the blue lagoon so you are not required to be naked in communal areas.

The Northern Lights

Our tour to see the Northern Lights was booked with Gray Line and was an early evening departure (6.30pm pick up). We had opted for the Northern Lights Deluxe tour which is an extended tour (5-8 hours) to give you the best possibility of seeing the lights and more time to observe them if they appear. The tour takes you out to some of the best dark spots outside of Reykjavík to watch the Aurora Borealis. Our guide was knowledgeable and seemed optimistic that we would see the lights, despite the cloud cover when we set out. They have the expertise to combine weather and lights forecasts with experience to know the best places to see the Northern Lights. 

Our tour included an hour stop at Salthúsið (Salthouse) Restaurant in Grindavik which is apparently famed for its Bacalao (salted cod), a traditional Icelandic dish. It seemed a bit of a pointless stop, to be honest, and we were served some generic mushroom and tomato soup which looked and tasted like it came from a packet, shame as I was looking forward to a traditional Icelandic offering. With hindsight I’d rather the pick up have been a bit later and this element of the trip been dropped.

However, from here we headed south in search of the lights and our guide’s knowledge paid off as we eventually witnessed a fantastic and prolonged display of the Aurora Borealis from the impossibly picturesque location of the “Miracle Church” on the south coast. It was a truly awesome experience, they are worth the chase!

We were given a complimentary fleecy blanket to snuggle with and keep warm, which the kids loved and was more than welcome after a couple of hours in the absolute freezing cold. Do not underestimate how cold it is standing outside waiting for the lights. My boy couldn’t feel his feet by the time we left and he had two pairs of socks and insulated snow boots on. Layer up, you don’t want to miss your opportunity to see the Northern Lights because you are cold.

A decision is taken daily at 6pm as to whether the tour will take place or not, depending on the weather and the Northern Lights forecast.

It is a good idea to book the tour early in your trip as if it is cancelled, or you do not see the lights, you can reschedule. With the deluxe tour we took they offer a complimentary Northern Lights Mystery tour instead if you don’t see the lights, check the individual tour details.

If you want to capture photos of the Northern Lights it is worth researching in advance how best to do this. There are various apps to help, otherwise you need to know a little about your camera settings to achieve any sort of results. We didn’t do this and as a result have no photos.

Explore the city

There is loads to see and do in Reykjavik, it is so vibrant and colourful that even just walking the streets and checking out the numerous cafe’s, street art and unusual corrugated buildings is fun. Laugavegur is the main shopping street in Reykjavík, renowned for its shops, cafes, restaurants, and bars.

An unmissable stop is Hallsgrimkirkja, Reykjavik’s famous church and most iconic landmark, which is a great place for getting an aerial view of Reykjavik.

With a series of sights and interesting historic buildings, the area known as Old Reykjavík is set between Tjörnin, the picturesque city-centre lake, and the harbour. This area houses the Alþingi (parliament) and the Dómkirkjan (Cathedral of Reykjavík) which is a much more modest and unassuming building than Hallgrimskirkja and consecrated in 1796 it is the capital’s oldest church. You can also find the monument to the Unknown Official, a sculpture paying a lighthearted tribute to the thankless, anonymous job of the bureaucrat.

The Old Harbour District is fast establishing itself as a new vibrant quarter of Reykjavík City. Here colourful sheds have been turned into shops and restaurants and there is even a microbrewery and chocolate factory. You can also see the big trawlers and other fishing boats. Further round are the huge grey Icelandic coastguard ships, if they are in the harbour.

From here it is worth a wander along to the seafront where you will find the striking Harpa Concert Hall with it’s reflective colourful glass panes and the impressive Sólfarið (The Sun Voyager sculpture), backed by the steely, icy waters of Faxaflói bay and beyond to Mount Esja.

There are many interesting museums in Reykjavik, including Whales of Iceland, Perlan, National Museum of Iceland, The Saga Museum, Reykjavík Maritime Museum and The Settlement Exhibition (the only one we visited but highly recommend).

Interestingly the Icelandic Phallological museum contains the world’s greatest collection of penises, if that is up your alley (literally or metaphorically). Specimens include the human variety, along with a blue whale specimen, which is a whopping 2.5m! We thought it probably inappropriate to visit with young kids, but I’m sure they would have been absolutely fascinated!

We didn’t have time but would have liked to visit the Laugardalur district of the city where there is the largest outdoor thermal pool in Reykjavík, Laugardalslaug. There is also a botanic gardens, family park and zoo.

What and where to eat

Reykjavik’s food scene is exciting and varied, with no shortage of good places to eat. From fine dining (try Dill, Reykjavík’s Michelin-starred eatery) to street food, and everything in between, you won’t go hungry!

Traditional Icelandic food is based around seafood (salt cod, Arctic char, salmon, langoustine, haddock etc) and lamb. A popular dish is stew made with lobster (it is actually langoustine), fish or lamb. More controversial items such as fermented shark, puffin, horse and minke whale also feature on menus – the debate rages on, it’s up to you to decide. Icelandic rye bread (rúgbrau) is widely eaten. Skyr is a popular dairy product that’s best described as a thick yogurt or fromage frais and Icelanders also love ice cream.
International cuisine is also popular with sushi, Thai, pizza, noodles and burgers all being commonly found in the city.

We loved the vibe and food at Grandi Matholl, a food hall in an old fish factory down in the cool Old Harbour District of town. Icelandic lamb and seafood are showcased to great effect here at reasonable prices.

Iceland is known for its hotdogs, try the hot dog stands dotted around. We can recommend Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – “The Best Hot Dogs in Town”. Great for grabbing a quick, cheap eat between sights!

Braud & co – you can find this lovely little bakery housed within a brightly painted building near Hallgrímskirkja and watch the bakers at work. The cinnamon buns are one of its most popular products, the vanilla pastries were divine.

Kaffibrennslan on Laugavegur is a nice place to stop for coffee and waffles or Icelandic love balls.

What to pack

A word of warning, winter in Iceland is cold with snow, freezing temperatures, storms and gusty icy winds so you do need to be prepared. Average temperatures in Reykjavik are actually around 0 °C but the wind chill is the issue and it can feel much colder, especially out in the countryside.

Layers are the key to keeping warm; you definitely need a set of good thermal base layers (long sleeved top and bottoms), then layer with fleeces or jumpers and practical outdoor trousers as necessary.

A waterproof and wind proof insulated coat is a must, as are waterproof trousers/ salopettes, hat, gloves, scarf or buff and warm socks.

Waterproof hiking boots and/ or snow boots are required, we took both. In downtown Reykjavik, unless there is heavy snow, you would be ok in sturdy winter shoes. We didn’t take crampons and to be honest we were fine without for what we did.

Whatever the season, don’t forget your swimming stuff.

A UK to EU travel plug/ EU USB port to charge devices and waterproof camera are useful.

Worth knowing

The currency is Icelandic Króna (ISK).
EUR, USD,GBP are not accepted.

Literally everywhere in Iceland takes cards (credit or debit cards). Just ensure you check what your bank charges you for using your card or withdrawing cash abroad. We took some cash but it wasn’t really required, although it may be useful if you need a small amount for bus fares or some toilets at tourist spots, which occasionally charge. Having said that you could even pay the 200 ISK fee for the toilets in the car park at Gullfoss with a card.

Iceland is expensive. Expect to pay around £18-20 for a pizza, £8 for a 500ml local beer, £35 for a bottle of house wine, £4 for a coffee.

It isn’t customary to tip in Iceland and isn’t expected.

You can read more about our Iceland adventure here.